Amigurumi Cute Doll Free Crochet Pattern

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Materials and Tools

– Hook number 2.5 mm

– Cotton or acrylic yarn 200m / 50g of different colors:

beige, white, coffee (hair), black, dark gray, light gray, red)

– Mouline thread of different colors for embroidering faces (black,

white, gray blue, brown, pink)

– Wire for the frame (braided copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm)

– Pliers (for cutting and twisting the frame)

– Durable cardboard (1010 g / m2) for the sole of the shoes

– A needle with a large eye for sewing parts + a device for introducing thread into the needle

– Stuffing, for example holofiber or synthetic luff

– Pliers for stuffing parts

– Adhesive plaster on a fabric basis (for winding the ends of the frame)

– plush light yarn (for winding on the frame of the legs)

– Scissors and pins


CH – chain

SC – single crochet

DC – double crochet

DEC – decrease

İNC – increase


Flesh color

1 Series – 6 SC into magic ring (6)

2-12 row – 6 SC (6)

13 Series – 1DEC, 4SC (5)

Cut the thread.


Flesh color

1 row – 7 SC into magic ring (7)

2-6 row – 7SC (7)

7th row – 1DEC, 6SC (8)

8-20 row – 8SC (8)

Cut the yarn on the right foot.

Change the color on the left foot to white and the last two columns crochet with white yarn. Do not cut the yarn.


Continue crocheting white yarn from the second leg

1 row – 3CH, 8SC on the right foot, 3 SC on the chain, 8 SC on the left foot, 3SC on the second side of the chain (22)

2-row (not complete) – crochet in a spiral, do not knit the last 2 columns, put a marker on – this is the middle of the body (22)

3rd row – 4SC, 1DEC, 9SC, 1DEC, 5SC (20)

4th row – 20SC (20)

5 row – 4SC, 1DEC, 8SC, 1DEC, 4SC (18)

6th row – 18SC (18) Change the color to beige

7 row – 3SC, 1DEC, 7SC, 1DEC, 4SC (16)

8-13th row – 16SC (16)

14th row – 4SC, 5SC on the first hand, 8SC, 5SC on the second hand, 4SC (26)

15 row – 4SC, 3DEC, 7SC, 3DEC, 3SC (20)

At this point we need to insert a frame into the doll’s body


It is necessary to prepare 2 pieces of wire for the frame of the desired size (see photo). Twist one part of a long piece, forming a “spine”, leaving the ends for the legs. Wrap the edges of the foot frame with adhesive tape (so that they do not pierce through the knitted fabric)

Now we need to wind the frame of the legs with plush yarn (to add volume to the legs) (see photo).

Then insert the wire for the hands into the “spine” at the desired level.

Make one revolution (so that the hand frame does not move).

Try on the length of the wire with the length of the brackets so that the frame is symmetrical and not very long (at this stage you can trim the ends of the frame with pliers)

Wrap the ends of the hands with a band-aid (as you did for the legs)

The frame is ready.

Carefully insert the frame, pulling your arms and legs over the frame like stockings.

At this stage, you should fill the body to the required volume.

(do not stuff your arms and legs)

For this, it is convenient to use ticks. Bend the ends of the legs (= legs) with pliers, bend the wire at the knees, feet and hands.

Shoulders and neck

Keep knitting the body

16th row – 3SC, 2DEC, 6SC, 2DEC, 3SC (16) 17th row – 8DEC (8)

At this point, fill your shoulders and upper body.

18 row –1SC, 1DEC, 2SC, 1DEC, 1SC (6)

19-20 row – 6SC (6)


1st row – 6İNC (12)

2nd row – 12İNC (24)

3rd row – (1İNC, 1SC) x12 (36)

4-15 row – 36SC (36)


Change color to hair color

16 row – (1DEC, 4SC) x6 (30)

17 row – (1DEC, 3SC) x6 (24)

18 row – (1DEC, 2SC) x6 (18)

Fill your head quite tightly and evenly.

19 row – (1DEC, 1SC) x6 (12)

20 row – 6DEC (6)

Add a tightener to the top of the head, tighten the left seams, leaving a long thread (approximately equal to the length of the hair)


The most important point is to determine the correct proportions of the location of the eyes.

Define the middle of the face by eye – this is a vertical line.

The horizontal line is between the 8th and 9th rows of the head.

Between the points for the eyes (yellow dots in the “holes”) there should be 4 “holes” (see photo)

When the starting points are determined, embroider the eyes with a thread of floss (of 6 threads), alternating colors.

I tried to carefully show all the steps in the photographs. You can determine the length of the stitches and the overall size of the eyes by carefully looking at the photos, counting by squares.

1. Embroider the pupils in black, but do not cut the thread, leave a rather long end in the temple area (we will need it to embroider eyelashes later)

2. Embroider the iris in gray-blue only on both sides of the pupil. Leave the left thread at the back of the head and secure it with a knot.

(Later there will be hair and the knot will be invisible)

3. Embroider white in gray-blue color. And making seams are highlights.

One long highlight along the pupil and one short highlight along the iris (see photo).

Fasten the thread on the back of the head in the same way.

4. Return to the black thread that we left. Carefully insert the needle into the eye.

(so that there are no seams near the temple) and make a few stitches along

upper eyelid and one suture along the lower eyelid.

Repeat the same for the second eye.

6 threads for embroidering eyelashes is too much, 3 is enough.

Here’s why: Next, remove the thread in the middle of the lower eyelid and divide the threads in half.

In this case, 3 out of 6 threads go for a while, and 3 threads are inserted into the needle and the lower (2 pcs) and upper (4 pcs) eyelashes are embroidered at this eye. Fasten the thread to the back of the head.

1. Embroider eyebrows with brown thread.

2. Embroider the nose with the same yarn that you used for the body (about 3 stitches).

3. Embroider a mouth with pink thread.

The face is ready.

In the photo you can see all the nodes on the back of the head.

Blush on the cheeks with pastel or blush.


Start by marking as for the eyes. From the middle line to each side, count 6 “holes” and put a marker in the 7th (yellow). Thus, there will be 12 “holes” between the right and left markers (silver pins).

To cut the hair threads faster, I take a book of a suitable size, wind it all over the width with yarn, and then trim along the cover. Thus, we quickly get threads of the same length.

From each of the markers you need to lay a hairline. You can see in the photo, you need to make 4 stitches every 2 rows.

Now fill the entire nape with two rows of hair loops.

Each row of hair loops = 4 rows of knitted head tissue. Insert the hook from bottom to top.

First all the sides, then the bottom row, and then the top row. In the photo you can see all the steps:

Now make one row of loops along the 16th row of the head (first row of hair on the head). Insert the hook from bottom to top.

Thus, fill the entire crown of the head with hair. Make a hair loop in each stitch of head fabric upward in a spiral. But insert the hook from left to right. (See photo)

The ears

4 SC into magic ring.

Leave a thread long enough for sewing.

Sew ears to the head at the edging, this you can see in the photo.


Start with white

1st row – chain 26 CH


2nd row – from the 5th loop from the hook 22 DC (22)

 Change color to red

3rd row – 3SC, 3CH (skip 4 stitches), 8SC, 3CH (skip 4 stitches), 3SC (20)

4 row – 3SC, 2SC in the chain, 8SC, 2SC in the chain, 3SC (18)

5th row – 18SC (18)

 Change the color to white (do not cut the red thread)

6th row – 18SC (18)

Cut the white yarn and return to the beginning of the row where you left the red yarn. Then we knit red yarn:

7 row – (3DC in 1 loop, 2DC in 1 loop) x8, (2DC in 1 loop) x2 (44)

Then we crochet in a circle, without turning the hook

8-11 row – (2DC only for the front loop, 2DC only for the rear loop) x11 (44)

In white

12 row – 44DC

Staple all the threads, hide all the ends. Sew a button in the front row


Black color


Crochet in a spiral Starting from the 2nd loop with a hook:

1 row – 3SC, 3SC in 1 loop, 2 SC, 1 İNC (10)

2nd row – 1İNC, 2SC, 3İNC, 2SC, 2İNC (16)

3rd row (not full) – 1SC, 1İNC, 3SC, 1İNC, 1SC (18)

Dark gray color

4th row – 18SC behind the back wall of the loop (18)

5th row – 18SC (18)

At this stage, it is necessary to cut the insoles of a suitable size from strong cardboard and stick them on the inside of the sole.

6th row – 5SC, 4DEC, 5SC (14)

7 row – 3SC, 4DEC, 3SC (10)

8-9 row – 10SC (10)

10 row -10DC

Fasten, trim the yarn and hide the end.

Teddy bear

Legs-body-head (one piece)

Grey colour

1st row – 6SC into magic ring (6)

2 row – (1İNC, 2SC) x2 (8)

3-5 row – 8SC (8)

Cut the yarn. Knit the second leg in the same way, but do not cut the yarn, continue to crochet:

6th row – 8SC along the first leg, 8SC along the second leg (16)

7 row – 3SC, 1DEC, 6SC, 1DEC, 3SC (14)

8 row – 3SC, 1DEC, 5SC, 1DEC, 2SC (12)

9 row – 2SC, 1DEC, 4SC, 1DEC, 2SC (10)

10 row – 2SC, 1DEC, 3SC, 1DEC, 1SC (8)

11 row – 1SC, 1DEC, 2SC, 1DEC, 1SC (6)

Fill the body

12 row – 6İNC (12)

13 row – (1İNC, 1SC) x6 (18)

14 row – (1İNC, 5SC) x3 (21)

15-18 row – 21SC (21)

19 row – (1DEC, 5SC) x3 (18)

20 row – (1DEC, 1SC) x6 (12)

Fill the body

21 row – 6DEC (6)

Cut the yarn, tighten and hide the end of the thread.

Hands (2pcs)

1st row – 6SC into magic ring (6)

2-5 rows – 6SC (6) Fill a little, leave the thread for sewing.

Paws (2pcs)

6 SC into magic ring (6)

Cut the yarn, leave the thread for sewing.


White color

11 DC into magic ring (11)

Cut the yarn, leave the thread for sewing.

Sew a muzzle, hands, paws

Embroider the eyes and nose with black thread.

You can tie a ribbon to make the bear more beautiful.

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