With the specified wool, the figure is about 25 cm tall.

• Wool (Sport weight), for me: Schachenmayr Catania/

Scheepjes Catona (Fb. 242, 255, 408, 172, 130)

• Crochet hook in suitable size (for me: 2,0 mm and 2,5 mm)

• Stuffing

• some cardboard or plastic

• Stones, rice or suitable weighting materials

• Eyes of suitable size (in my case: 8 mm)

Abbreviations (US Terms):

MR = magic ring

sc = single crochet

ch = chain

st = stitch

slst = slip stitch

inc = increase

dec = decrease

BLO = back loop only

FLO = front loop only

The details of the wool and hook sizes I use are of course only examples. If you use

wool other than indicated, the figure will be larger or smaller. Which wool is used, of

course, is up to you. The needle size used must be adapted to the wool used and its

own crochet. When crocheting Amigurumis you should use a much smaller hook size

than indicated on the banderole or you would use for other crochet projects so that

no holes are created during the stuffing. My stitching results with hook size

2 mm with six crocheted rounds a diameter of 4.5 cm.

It is – unless otherwise stated – crocheted in spiral circles.

Head / Body:

skin color

Stuff the figure regularly during crocheting at a suitable place.

You can use e. g. a plastic bottle to fill the skirt. Fill the bottle with pebbles or

something like that for a better standing. Of course You have to adjust the skirt to

the size of the bottle.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

8. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

9. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

10.-19. (10 rounds) sc in each st (54)

When using safety eyes, attach them now between round 12 and 13 with about 8

stitches betweèn. Eyes for sewing can then be attached later at this point.

20. (sc 7, dec) x6 (48)

21. (sc 6, dec) x6 (42)

22. (sc 5, dec) x6 (36)

23. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

24. (sc 3, dec) x6 (24)

25. (sc 2, dec) x6 (18)

26. slst 1 in each st (18)

27. BLO: (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

28. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

29. (sc 9, inc) x3 (33)

30. (sc 10, inc) x3 (36)

31. sc in each st (36)

Change color to clothing color (e. g. dark gray)

32.-37. (6 rounds) sc in each st (36)

38. (sc 10, dec) x3 (33)

39. sc in each st (33)

40. (sc 9, dec) x3 (30)

41. slst 1 in each st (30)

42. BLO: (4sc, inc) x6 (36)

43. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

44. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

45. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

46. (sc 8, inc) x6 (60)

47.-78. (32 rounds) sc in each st (60)

79. (sc 9, inc) x6 (66)

80. (sc 10, inc) x6 (72)

Fasten off, hide the yarn later in the body.

Bottom:

dark grey (clothing color)

1. sc 8 in MR (8)

2. inc x8 (16)

3. (sc 1, inc) x8 (24)

4. (sc 2, inc) x8 (32)

5. (sc 3, inc) x8 (40)

6. (sc 4, inc) x8 (48)

7. (sc 5, inc) x8 (56)

8. (sc 6, inc) x8 (64)

9. (sc 7, inc) x8 (72)

Do not fasten of, now connecting the bottom to the body.

First cut out of solid cardboard or flat plastic (of packaging, for example) a circle the

size of the bottom plate. This gives a little more stability.

In the bottom of the dress near the bottom in addition to the filler put in some

weighting material, either a larger (naturally cleaned) stone, or you could put it in a

bag or sachet or rice etc. or wathever heavy weight materials You can use.

Now pick up the last stitch of the bottom plate, stitch through a loop of the bottom

and through a loop of the dress and crochet together as follows:

1. ch 1, (sc 8, inc) x8 (always stitch through both pieces), finish round with a slst

into the first sc (80)

2. (sc 1, ch 2, sc 1) in one stitch, skip 1 stitch – repeat until end of the round,

finish round with a slst into the first sc

Arm (2x):

skin color

Stuff Arm while crocheting.

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 3, inc) x3 (15)

4.-8. (5 rounds) sc in each st (15)

9. (sc 1, dec) x5 (10)

10.-24. (15 rounds) sc in each st (10)

25. dec x5 (5)

Fasten off, leave a long tail for sewing.

Hairdo:

silver/light grey

1. sc 6 in MR (6)

2. inc x6 (12)

3. (sc 1, inc) x6 (18)

4. (sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

5. (sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

6. (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

7.-11. (5 rounds) sc in each st (36)

12. (sc 4, dec) x6 (30)

13. slst 1 in each st (30)

14. FLO: (sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

15. (sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

16. (sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

17. (sc 7, inc) x6 (54)

18.-26. (9 roun

ds) sc in each st (54)

27. (sc 1, ch 1, sc 1) in one stitch, skip 1 st <— repeat until the end of the round.

Fasten off, leaving long tail for sewing.

Ribbon for the hair:

pink color

Here You have different options.

Maybe You will make a chain in a

corresponding length to reach around the bun,

crochet 1 or 2 rows sc, put it around the bun

and sew it together.

For such ribbons I mostly use cord from Planet

Big bag for the apron:

pink, NS 2,5 mm (just 1 or 2 sizes bigger than the other pieces before)

You are working in rows. Each row begins with a chain and You turn Your work at

the end of each row.

1. ch 41 sc 40, starts from second ch from hook (40)

2. -21. (20 rows) sc in each st (40)

22. sc 17 (leave the remaining stitches unworked), turn

23. ch 1, skip 1 st, sc 16, turn

24. ch 1, sc 15, turn

25. ch 1, skip 1 st, sc 14

Fasten off invisibly.

Join yarn at the other side (turn the piece once and crochet from the edge towards

the middle, again not over the whole width).

22. sc 15 (leave the remaining stitches unworked), turn

23. ch 1, sk 1st, sc 14, turn

24. sc 40 along the entire width

Fasten off invisibly.

Apron:

pink, NS 2,5 mm (just 1 or 2 sizes bigger than the other pieces before)

You are working in rows. Each row begins with a chain and You turn Your work at

the end of each row.

For the decreases You can also skip one stitch. This works very well for crocheting in

rows and it’s a bit more invisible than a normal decrease.

1. ch 41 sc 40, starts from second ch from hook (40)

2.-29. (28 rows) sc in each st (40)

30. (sc 8, dec) x4 (36)

31. (sc 7, dec) x4 (32)

32. (sc 6, dec) x4 (28)

33. (sc 5, dec) x4 (24)

Place the big bag exactly on the apron and mark the place where the bag ends. Now

You know later the place where You have to crochet the pieces together.

34. ch 30-40 (depending how long the ribbon should be for You), go back to the

apron while crocheting slip stitches, slip stitches along the upper side of the

apron in each stitch, again ch 30-40 for the other ribbon and go back with slip

stitches, now sc along the side (sc 1 per row), look for the marker and crochet

from this point the bag and apron together, than sc along the bottom through

both pieces, and again along the other side, crochet sc 1 per row, furthermore

crochet through both pieces, finish with a slip stitch into the first stitch.

Fasten off invisibly.

Join into the 7th stich for the upper part of the apron, make 1ch into the front loop

only. Crochet in rows.

1. FLO: sc 12

2.-8. (7 rows) sc in each st (12)

Fasten off invisibly.

Join at the right side of this newly made piece, make 1ch. Now along the side 1sc

per row. When You reached the top crochet agein 30-40 chains for the ribbon and go

back with slip stitches, make slip stitches along the top, aigain 30-40 chains for the

ribbon and go back with slip stitches, 1sc per row along the side.

Fasten off invisibly.

I have made two little bags in a corresponding size. Make a rectangle. I made one

with 20 stitches width and 12 rows up. The other bag 10 stitches width and 20

rows up. Crochet both around with sc, make 3sc into each edge for a nice finish.

I have divided the big bag into three parts, just sew with a few stitches at the top of

the bag.

Now sew the little bags to the big bag.

If You want, You can make a nice finish for the entire apron. Crochet e. g. with offwhite 1ch, 1slst <- repeat around.

Finishing:

Stuff the bun, put the hairdo to the head and pin it. Make with skin color sc 6 in a

magic ring for the ears, leave a tail for sewing. Make two. Pin the Ears to the head.

If You use Eyes

If the eyes are not yet attached, sew it to the head. Now check the alignment of the

ears and hair again and if everything is correct, sew it to the head. Embroider the

nose and mouth.

If you want your grandma to look a bit older, like in the

picture on the right, don’t embroider her mouth. Until

then everything is the same. Between the markers for

the mouth should be about 8 stitches, about 3 rounds

below the nose. Insert a skin or mouth colored thread

into a long enough needle. Insert the needle into the

back of the neck and come out at one of the two

marks, insert it into the second mark and go back to

the neck and come out exactly at the starting point.

Pull the thread tight until the toothless granny’s mouth

has formed and knot it well, then hide the threads

inside.

The mouth is now ready, but the face now looks a bit strange. This is due to the

position of the nose. Therefore use a skin-coloured thread and insert your needle in

the middle of the front side between head and body and come out on one side

directly above or just beside of the nose, insert again on the other side of the nose,

back down to the starting point. Pull the thread tight so that

the top of the nose is

pulled down a little and a sweet nose is formed (see pictures below), knot it well and

hide the threads.

Best of all, you can change it even after you’ve embroidered your mouth. Simply

remove it and then follow the steps described.

Sew the arms directly underneath the head left and right.

Finally, put on the apron and close the ribbons on the back to a bow.