the Christmas Elf
Yarn and Equipment
1. Alize Cotton Gold, cotton (55%), acrylic (45%), color light-beige (67), 330 m – 100 g.
Weight: Sport (5 ply) (Used for the head and arms of the doll). You will need approximately
10g of the yarn.
2. Alize Cotton Gold color beige (262) (Used for the hair). You will need approximately 20 g
of the yarn.
3. Alize Cotton Gold color cream (01) (Used for the stripes on the socks and the hat, for the
decor on the jacket and the skirt) – approximately 5 g of the yarn.
4. Alize Cotton Gold color mustard (05) (Used for the boots). You will need approximately 5
g of the yarn.
5. Alize Cotton Gold color dark brown (493) (Used for the boots). You will need
approximately 1 g of the yarn.
6. YarnArt Jeans, cotton (55%), polyacrylic (45%), color red (26). Weight: Sport (5 ply)
(Used for the jacket, the stripes on the socks and the hat). You will need approximately 15 g of
the yarn.
7. YarnArt Jeans color green (52) (Used for the skirt, arms and stripes on the body). You will
need approximately 15 g of the yarn.
8. A pair of eyes for toys or two halfbeads Ø 4 mm (0,16 inch)
9. Crochet hook: 2 mm (B/1- US, 14- UK), 2,5 mm (C/2 – US, 12 – UK).
10. Chopstick (or any other wooden stick with a blunt end) – for the stuffing of the toy.
11. Washable polyester filling for the stuffing of the toy.
12. Yarn needle – a long needle for assembling of the toy.
13. Two small red buttons for boots Ø 6 mm (0,24 inch).
If you use the materials as advised above the final size of the toy is going to be 21-22 cm
(approximately 8,5″) from top of the head to toes.
The pattern is written using USA terminology
Abbreviations
R- row
MR – Magic ring;
St/Sts – stitch/stitches
ch – chain stitch;
sc – single crochet;
dc – double crochet
dec- decreasing (2 sc/dc together);
inc – increasing (2 sc/dc in 1 st);
ch-1 sp – chain 1 space
3dcps – a puff with 3 double stitches;
sl st – slip stitch;
3sctog- decreasing (3 sc together);
2 dctog- decreasing (2 sc together);
fpdc – front post double crochet;
bpdc – back post double crochet;
fpsc- front post single crochet
bpsc- back post single crochet;
Note: To make the decreases less visible on the crocheted detail I recommend making them
as shown in the picture below. It is advisable to use the present method on the visible parts of
the doll such as face, visible parts of the body, etc.
Arms (2 piece)
Use a 2 mm crochet hook and light-beige (skin colored) yarn.
Start at the underside of the arm.
R 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (8)
R 3: (3 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (10)
R 4: 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (11)
R 5: 11 sc (11)
R 6: 5 sc, 3dcps, 5 sc (11)
R 7: 4 sc, 3sctog, 4 sc (9)
R 8-9: 9 sc (9)
Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly. Stuff the upper/further part of the arm loosely – use as
little of the stuffing as you can.
R 10-12: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
Crochet additional 1 or 2 sc in the 12th row so that the change of the yarn is made at the back of
the arm.
Cut off the light-beige yarn and attach the green yarn
R 13: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
R 14: 9 sc into the back loop of the stitch (9)
R 15-24: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
R 25: (1 sc, 1 dec) 3 times, sl st (6)
Cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
The last 8 rows do not add the stuffing at all or stuff very loosely so that the arms do not stick
out too much.
Attach the green yarn to the 13th row in the center of the back of the detail.
Insert the hook into the loop from the top downwards (from the top of the arm to the
direction of the palm)
R 1: 9 sc into the front loop (9)
R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 3 times (12)
Cut off the green yarn and attach the cream yarn
R 3: (1 sc, 2 ch) crochet in each stitch round the detail. Finish the row with sl st.
Cut and fix the yarn.
Legs, body and head (1 pieces)
We begin crocheting from the feet and legs of the doll.
Use a 2mm crochet hook and dark brown yarn.
Begin crocheting the left leg.
Ch 6 and work starting from the 2 nd st from the hook
around the foundation chain:
R 1: 1 inc, 3 sc, 4 sc in one st, 3 sc, 1 inc (14)
R 2: 1 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (20)
R 3: 1 inc, 5 sc, (1 sc, 1 inc) 4 times, 5 sc, 1 inc (26)
R 4: 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) 4 times, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (32)
Cut out two thick carton or plastic insoles of the matching size.
R 5: 32 sc into the back loop of the stitch (32)
Insert the insoles into the sole of the boots paying attention so
that the sole is tight around the insole. Put the insoles aside and
continue crocheting.
Cut off the dark brown yarn and attach the mustard yarn
R 6-7: 32 sc (32)
Pay attention – the decreasing in the 8th row is going to
be made with using different stitches.
R 8: 8 sc, 2 sc2tog, 6 dc2tog, 2 sc2tog, 6 sc (the marker is
moved 2 sc further on) (22)
R 9: 22 sc (22)
Insert the insoles into the boots.
R 10: 6 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, (18)
Cut off the mustard yarn and attach the red yarn.
Crochet the 11th row into the back loop of the stitch.
R 11: 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc (13)
R 12: 5 sc, sc3tog, 5 sc (11)
Stuff the boot tightly, avoid stretching the stitches and bending the insoles.
R 13-15: 11 sc (11)
Do not cut off the red yarn.
Add the cream thread and continue crocheting.
Later on while crocheting you should make sure that the marker stays in the center of the back
of the leg so that the line of where you change yarn color does not move towards the front. For
that you can crochet an extra sc if needed and move the marker.
R 16-17: 11 sc cream yarn (11)
Change to red colored yarn
R 18-19: 11 sc (11)
Note: When you finish the 25th row cut and fix the cream colored yarn.
R 20-27: repeat 16-19 rows (change color from red to cream and vice versa every two
rows)
R 28: 8 sc (Stop crocheting the present row in the middle of the inner side of the leg. I stopped
and did not finish 3sc. You can stop earlier or later depending on the thickness of the yarn or
tightness of your crocheting).
For the right leg repeat 1st through 27th rows.
R 28: 14 sc (In the present row we add 3 sc more or less so that the row is finished in the
middle of the inner part of the leg. I made 3 sc. You might need more or fewer sc depending on
the thickness of the yarn or tightness of your crocheting).
Attach the mustard yarn to the 10th row in the center of the back of the detail. Insert the
hook into the loop from the bottom up (from the boot up the leg) .
R 1-2: 3 ch (does not count as st), 18 dc (crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the
ch), sl st in 1 st dc of the round to join (18)
R 3:1 ch, 18 reverse sc or Crab Stitch, sl ts to join (18)
Stuff the legs tightly. Avoid stretching the stitches.
We join the legs and begin crocheting the body
Turn the legs with the heels facing you. Without cutting off the
red yarn on the right leg make 4ch and attach it to the left leg.
R 29: 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc on the left leg detail, then 4 sc on chain, 5
sc, 1 inc, 5 sc on the right leg, 4 inc on the other side of the on
chain. Place the marker. (36)
R 30: 28 sc, (1 sc,1 inc) 4 times (40)
R 31-34: 40 sc (40)
R 35: (8 sc,1 dec) 4 times (36)
R 36: 36 sc (36)
R 37: 13 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (34)
R 38: 34 sc (34)
R 39: 5 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc (32)
Cut off the red thread and attach the green yarn.
R 40: 32 sl st into the back loop of the stitch (32)
R 41: 32 sc into the back loop of the stitch (32)
Attach cream colored yarn and change to it.
R 42: 5 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc (30)
Change to green colored yarn
R 43: (8 sc, 1 dec) 3 times (27)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 44: 27 sc (27)
Further on continue changing the yarn from cream to green in each row.
R 45-47: 27 sc (27)
R 48: 4 sc, 1 dec, (7 sc,1 dec) 2 times, 3 sc (24)
R 49: 24 sc (24)
R 50: 4 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (20)
R 51: 4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (18)
Stuff the body tightly, distribute the stuffing well, especially in the lower part of the body.
Cut off the cream and green yarns and attach the light-beige (skin colored) yarn.
Crochet 52nd row into the back loop of the stitch
R 52: (1 sc,1 dec) 6 times (12)
R 53-55: 12 sc (12)
Put aside the detail. Take the green yarn and attach it to the remaining front loops of the 51st
row.
Crochet into the front loop of each of the crochets of the row (1 sc, 1 ch). Finish the row with sl
st to join, cut and fix the yarn.
Stuff the body and the neck.
Go back to working on the main detail.
Begin crocheting the head.
R 56: 12 inc (24)
R 57: (2 sc, 1 inc) 8 times (32)
R 58: (3 sc, 1 inc) 8 times (40)
R 59: 2 sc, 1 inc, (4 sc, 1 inc) 7 times, 2 sc (48)
R 60-70: 48 sc (48)
Take a piece of wire approximately 6 inches long (15 см).
Attach some cotton yarn to the wire with the help of glue
wrapping the yarn around the wire, bend it in half and twist
the ends round as in the photo. Insert pointed ends of the wire
through the neck into the body through the stuffing as shown
in the photo. Stuff the head in the process of crocheting.
R 71: 3 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 3 sc (42)
R 72: (5 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (36)
R 73: 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 2 sc (30)
R 74: (3 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (24)
R 75: 1 sc, 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) 5 times, 1 sc (18)
R 76: (1 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (12)
R 77: 6 dec (6)
Stuff the head tightly. Pay attention that it is well stuffed and
the stuffing is well-distributed especially at the bottom where
the cheeks are going to be formed. Close the opening, fix the
yarn and hide its tails inside the detail.
The wig
Use a 2mm crochet hook and beige colored yarn.
The cap for the wig is worked in joined rounds. In all the joined rounds (2nd through 4th) the
chain at the beginning of the row is counted as st. From the 2nd row up to the 5 th row work all
sts into back loop only.
R 1: 6 sc in MR (place marker in 2 nd sc), sl st in 1
st sc of the round to join (6)
R 2: 1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch and place marker in same st, 5 inc, sl st in ch of the round
to join (12)
From the 3 rd to the 4 th row make the increase of double crochet.
R 3: 2 ch, 1 dc into the base of the ch and place marker in same st, 11 inc, sl st to the 2nd ch of
the round to join (24)
R 4: 2 ch, 1 inc in next st, (1 dc, 1 inc) 11 times, (place marker in last dc of this round), sl st to
the 2nd ch of the round to join (36)
Continue working in the rows. From the 5th row up to the 8 th row 2 ch at the beginning of the
row does not count as a stitch.
R 5: 2 ch, 1 dc in next st, 1 inc, (2 dc, 1 inc) 6 times, 1 dc, 1 dec, turn work (29)
R 6-8: 2 ch, 29 dc (1 st dc into the base of the ch), turn work (29)
We are going to crochet strands of hair further on.
R 9: (17 ch, 16 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 8 th row) repeat 14 times,
17 ch, 16 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in 2 nd ch of 8 th row.
You are to receive 15 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Note: Further on continue crocheting the strands in the joined rounds into the front loops of the
stitches. In each next row (1st through 4th) the last sl st are made into the base of the chain of
the first strand of the row.
Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 4
th row that has been marked by the marker.
R 1: (30 ch, 29 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 4 th row) repeat 13 times,
(10 ch, 9 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 4 th row) repeat 5 times.
You are to receive 18 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.
Continue crochet the strands into the front loops of the 3
rd row.
Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 3rd row that is marked by the marker.
R 2: (32 ch, 31 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 3 rd row) repeat 8 times,
(12 ch, 11 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 3 rd row) repeat 4 times.
You are to receive 12 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the
2
nd row that is marked by the marker.
R 3: (34 ch, 33 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 2nd row) repeat 8 times, (14 ch,
13 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 2 nd row) repeat 4 times. You are to receive
12 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 1st row that is marked by the marker.
R 4: (36 ch, 35 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 1st row) repeat 3 times, (16 ch,
15 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 1 st row) repeat 3.
You are to receive 6 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
Steam iron the strands through a wet cloth to make the strands more even.
Assembling of the toy
Fix the arms with sewing pins to the 50st row (the last cream colored stripe) of the body and
attach them sewing in the round.
If you want the shoulders to look more natural press them with an iron through a wet cloth.
Count down 13 rows from the top of the head and mark the place for the eyes with pins. The
distance between the eyes should be 3 sc. Glue or sew on the eyes.
Mark the place for the nose two rows down from the eyes.
Start embroidering the nose. Place the stitches over two single crochet until the nose is
protruding a bit. Do not make the stitches too tight – the stitches should be quite accurate and
the tightness of the stitches should be the same for all of them. Only in such a case, the nose is
going to be even. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the
thread well and hide its ends inside the head.
Match the top center of the head with the center of the wig, fix the wig to the head with the help
of the sewing pins and then sew it on with small sewing stitches following the edges of the wig
(as shown in the photos below).
Then lower each row of the strands and attach them with small stitches pressing the strands
to the head. You can leave the last row of 6 strands unattached.
Put some blusher on the doll’s cheeks.
That is all! Now you can dress up the Doll!
Skirt
Use the 2,5 mm crochet hook and green colored yarn.
Work in joined rounds.
To make an even seam ch 2 (at the beginning of the row), sl st to join does not count as a
stitch now and throughout. Crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the ch.
R 1: ch 33, sl st to the 1st ch of the round to join.
R 2: 2 ch, 33 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (33)
From the 3
rd and 4th rows work all sts into back loop only.
R 3: 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 inc, (4 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 2 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (39)
R 4: 2 ch, 39 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (39)
R 5: 2 ch, 7 dc, 1 inc, (5 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 1 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (45)
R 6: 2 ch, 2 dc into the base of the ch, *skip 2 sts, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next st*. Repeat * to *
until 2 sts remain, skip these 2 sts, 2 dc into the same crochet, into which you did the first 2 dc,
1 ch, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join.
R 7-8: 2 сh, then crochet 2 dc between the 2ch and the two first dc of the previous row, skip 4
sts. *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, skip 4 sts*. Repeat * till * until 4 sts remain, skip 4 sts, 2 dc
into the same crochet, into which you did the first 2 dc, 1 ch, sl st to the the 1st dc of the round
to join.
Cut off and fix the yarn.
Further on we will crochet two more frills.
Attach the yarn to the front loop of the crochets of the 2nd row.
R 1: Repeat R 6 on the 33 stitches.
R 2: Repeat R 7
Cut off and fix the yarn.
Attach the yarn to the front loop of the crochets of the 3rd row.
R 1: 2 ch, 39 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (39)
R 2: Repeat R 6 on the 39 stitches
R 3: Repeat R 7
Cut off and fix the yarn.
Attach the cream yarn in the center of the back into the back loop of the crochets of the 8nd
row.
Then crochet (1 sc, 2 ch) in each st around. Finish off the row with sl st. Cut off and fix the
yarn.
Repeat for each frill accordingly
Decorative belt for the skirt
Use 2 mm hook and cream yarn.
Ch 5 and crochet into 5
th st from the hook (1 sl st, 4 ch) repeat 3 times, sl st.
Then crochet 70 ch. Pull out the last loop so that the chain does not get dissolved. Cut the yarn
leaving a long tail enough to make the three petals as at the beginning of the belt.
Thread the belt between the dc of the first row of the skirt. Insert the hook into the pulled out
chain and into the 5th chain counting from the hook and crochet 3 petals as you have done at the
other end of the belt. The tails of the yarn at both ends of the belt thread through the base of the
petals, pull them through, fix and cut them off (see photos below illustrating the process).
Jacket
The jacket is crocheted by turning the rows starting from the neck. Use the 2,5 mm crochet
hook and red colored yarn.
Ch 21 and work starting from 2nd st from the hook.
R 1: 20 sc, turn the work (20)
R 2: 2 ch, (1 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, (1 inc, 1 dc) 5 times, turn the work (30)
R 3: 2 ch, 4 dc, 4 ch, 6 skip, 10 dc, 4 ch, 6 skip, 4 dc, turn the work (26)
R 4: 2 ch, 26 dc (4 dc, 4 sc on chains, 10 dc, 4 dc on chains, 4 dc) turn the work (26)
R 5: 2 ch, 8 dc, (1 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 2 dc, (1 inc, 1 dc) 2 times, 8 dc, turn the work (30)
R 6: 2 ch, 8 dc, (2 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 2 dc, (1 inc, 2 dc) 2 times, 8 dc, turn the work clockwise, 2
sc in the last st of the 6th row, and crochet sc all along around the work in the direction shown
by the arrows in the photo (side- collar-side). Try and crochet the sc loosely so that the detail
remains flat.
Do not crochet the sc at the bottom of the vest. Crochet 2 sc or 3 sc in one st at corner points so
that the corners of the work do not curl. Crochet 2 sc into the last angular stitch to make the
turn, skip 1 stitch of the bottom and finish sl st. Cut off and fix the yarn.
Turn the vest with the right side facing you
and attach the cream colored yarn to the
back of the stitch in the middle of the
collar. Then crochet (1 sc, 1ch) in each st
into back loop only around all sides of the
vest. Finish with sl st. Cut off and fix the
yarn.
Divide a small piece of cream yarn in two
to make it thinner and embroider a
snowflake on both front parts of the vest.
Steam iron the vest through a wet cloth.
Turn out the collar a bit and press it with
the tip of the iron.
Hat
Begin with the red colored yarn. Use 2,5 mm hook.
To make an even seam ch 2 (at the beginning of the row), sl st to join does not count as a stitch
now and throughout. Crochet the first dc of each round into the base of the ch.
The Invisible Seam – Crochet Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-HRE0tB-Rc
R 1: 6 sc in MR, sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (6)
R 2-3: 2 ch, 6 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (6)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 4: 2 ch, (2 dc,1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (8)
Change to red colored yarn
R 5-6: 2 ch, 8 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (8)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 7: 2 ch, (3 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (10)
Change to red colored yarn
R 8-9: 2 ch, 10 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round
to join (10)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 10: 2 ch, 2 dc, 1 inc, 4 dc, 1 inc, 2 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (12)
Change to red colored yarn
R 11-12: 2 ch, 12 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (12)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 13: 2 ch, (5 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (14)
Change to red colored yarn
R 14: 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 inc, 6 dc, 1 inc, 3 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (16)
R 15: 2 ch, (7 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (18)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 16: 2 ch, 4 dc, 1 inc, 8 dc, 1 inc, 4 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (20)
Change to red colored yarn
R 17: 2 ch, (9 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (22)
R 18: 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 inc, 10 dc, 1 inc, 5 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (24)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 19: 2 ch, (7 dc, 1 inc) 3 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (27)
Change to red colored yarn
R 20: 2 ch, 4 dc, 1 inc, (8 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 4 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (30)
R 21: 2 ch, (9 dc, 1 inc) 3 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (33)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 22: 2 ch, 5 dc, 1 inc, (10 dc, 1 inc) 2 times, 5 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (36)
Change to red colored yarn
R 23: 2 ch, (5 dc, 1 inc) 6 times, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (42)
R 24: 2 ch, 3 dc, 1 inc, (6 dc, 1 inc) 5 times, 3 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
Change to cream colored yarn
R 25: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
Change to red colored yarn
R 26-27: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
Thread of red color cut and fasten off.
Change to cream colored yarn
R 28: 2 ch, 48 dc, sl st to the 1st dc of the round to join (48)
Note: Crochet the first fpdc of 29 st round into the base of the ch.
R 29: 2 ch, (1 fpdc, 1 bpdc) and repeat until the end of a row, sl st to the 1st fpdc of the round to
join (48)
Note: Crochet the first fpsc of 30 st round into the base of the ch.
R 30: 1 ch, (1 fpsc, 1 ch, 1 bpsc, 1 ch) and repeat until the end of the row, sl st to the 1st fpsc of
the round to join (48)
Cut and fasten off.
Make a pompom from the cream yarn and fix it to the end of the hat.
How to crochet fpdc & bpdc (Front post double crochet – Back post double crochet)
Sew two small buttons onto the boots.
Now you can praise yourself and give yourself a little pat on the back for a job
well done)))
Now you have a soft and cozy friend, the Christmas Elf!
ENJOY!